India
Tea and tradition in Varanasi
Tea and Varanasi both have a rich and complex history and this photo essay draws together the traditions of both. Scroll through to see photos of our Chai Wallah Suresh at work and the incomparable city of Varanasi.
A man sleeps in a building in Varanasi.
Early morning, when most are still sleeping, is the best time to explore the ghats in Varanasi.
A woman sweeps the ghats in Varanasi.
A woman sweeps the stone steps of the ghat in the morning.
A man milks a cow in the cow shed in Varanasi.
In the cow shed the morning means the milking must begin.
In India chai is often made with buffalo milk, rather than cow's milk.
Milk being poured to make chai.
Masala chai ingredients ready to be simmered in the pan.
Masala chai ingredients ready to simmer in the pan.
Tools of the chai wallah's trade: kettles, pans and a tea strainer.
Tools of the chai wallah's trade: kettles, pans and a tea strainer.
Chai is sometimes served in petite terracotta cups, which you smash after drinking.
When you finish drinking your chai you smash your terracotta cup on the ground.
Suresh, a third generation chai wallah, at his stall in Varanasi.
Suresh, a third generation chai wallah, at his stall in Varanasi.
Suresh's father was a renowned Kushti teacher in Varanasi.
Suresh's father was a renowned Kushti teacher in Varanasi and featured in a book about the discipline.
A goat eats discarded flower offerings in Varanasi
One person's trash is another's treasure: a goat devours floral remains along the banks of the river Ganges.
The sunken Shiva Temple at Scindia Ghat on the Ganges River.
At Scindia Ghat the Shiva Temple is slowing sinking into the river.
A ceremony being performed at sunrise by the Ganges.
As dusk falls on the city the Ganga Aarti is performed by the river.
Dhobis (washer people) doing laundry on the ghats of Varanasi.
Dhobis (washer people) soap and slap clothes and sheets onto stone tables before laying them out to dry on the warm stone ghats.
Barbers shave pilgrims and tourists in Varanasi.
The ghats are lined with barbers offering pilgrims and tourists a cut-throat shave.
Washer people on the banks of the river Ganges in Varanasi.
The banks of the river are filled with locals going about their daily business.
A couple takes an early morning dip in the river Ganges amongst flower offerings.
A couple takes an early morning dip in the river amongst flower offerings.
The banks of the Ganges River full of pilgrims in Varanasi.
Once the sun has risen the banks of the river are flooded with pilgrims paying their respects at the holy Ganga River.
Dhobis man doing laundry on the ghats of Varanasi.
A Dhobi does laundry on the ghats of Varanasi.
A cow surveys the city of Varanasi.
A cow surveys the city.
Early fishing on Ganges.
Early morning fishing on Ganges.
A goat stands outside a shrine at the Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi, where cremations take place.
A goat stands outside a shrine at the Manikarnika Ghat, where cremations take place.
Evenings bring fire and smoke to the ghats in Varanasi.
Evenings bring fire and smoke to the ghats.
Candles being lit to celebrate the Maha Shivaratri Festival in Varanasi.
Candles are lit to celebrate the Maha Shivaratri Festival.
A street vendor works by candlelight to make snacks in Varanasi.
A street vendor makes snacks by candlelight.
Worshipers celebrate the Maha Shivaratri Festival in Varanasi.
The Maha Shivaratri Festival celebrates Lord Shiva and devotees recite prayers and make offerings like flowers, coconuts, milk and fruits.
Share this tale